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Spirits of the Stars

2/26/2024

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Every day, there seems to be a new celebrity-endorsed or celebrity-founded alcohol brand launching into the market. Among Hollywood celebrities, it almost feels like having an alcohol brand in your name is a coveted form of bragging rights; a status symbol—even among other celebs. Of course, celebrities have endorsed products since, well, pretty much since products have existed, but it feels like the celebrity-tied alcohol (especially tequila) phenomenon has really skyrocketed in the past decade. Our guess is that we have Sammy Hagar (Cabo Wabo) and George Clooney (Casamigos) to thank for that.
In August of 2021, Esquire magazine did a roundup and a rating of 63 celebrity-branded spirits. When they did a similar roundup three years previous, there were only 37 such brands. Since the 2021 piece, another 44 have debuted, a list of which we'll include here as well.

In looking over the group of brands, a few striking facts emerge:
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Of the original 63 brands listed, 22 were bourbon/whiskey (35%), 17 were tequila/mezcal (27%), 13 were vodka (20%), and 11 (18%) were other (gin, rum, cognac, etc.)
Only 4 of those original 63 brands were actually founded by—or branded by—women: Prospero Tequila (Rita Ora), Vera Wang Chopin Vodka (Vera Wang), SkinnyGirl Vodka (Bethenny Frankel), King St. Vodka (Kate Hudson). Since this list came out, a whole slew of woman-owned brands have launched (a total of 12 more), including the Betty Buzz brand of RTD cocktails, which is headed by Blake Lively, Renais Gin from Emma Watson, and a line of Margarita Cocktails founded by acting trio Vanessa Hudgens, Ashley Benson, Rosario Dawson.

The central question in the Esquire piece centered around whether celebrity-endorsed bottles are actually any good. In an effort to answer that question, the editors rated each of the brands on their quality alone. This is some of what they found:

The 10 best-tasting brands (scoring 9-7 on a 10-point scale) according to Esquire (in descending order):

Sweetens Cove Bourbon (Peyton Manning and Andy Roddick)
Lagavulin Single Malt, Nick Offerman Edition
Codigo Tequila (George Strait)
Wild Turkey Longbranch Bourbon (Matthew McConaughey)
Blackened American Whiskey (Metallica)
Heaven's Door Whiskey (Bob Dylan)
Singai 63 (Steven Soderbergh) 
Aviation Gin (Ryan Reynolds) 
Cincoro Tequila (Michael Jordan) 
SelvaRey Rum (Bruno Mars)

The 10 worst-tasting brands (scoring 4-2), in ascending order: 

Beach Whiskey (Billy Bush)
New Amsterdam Pink Whitney Vodka (Ryan Whitney/Paul Bissonnette)
Backstage Southern Whiskey (Darius Rucker)
Old Camp Peach Pecan Whiskey (Florida Georgia Line)
Blue Chair Bay Rum (Kenny Chesney)
BSB Brown Sugar Bourbon (Jamie Foxx)
Chipper Jones' Sweet Tea Moonshine (Chipper Jones)
Bespoken Spirits Bourbon (Derek Jeter)
Woodson Whiskey (Charles Woodson)
Skinnygirl Vodka (Bethenny Frankel)

Since the Esquire roundup was done, another 44 brands have entered the fray. They have changed the overall mix of categories in significant ways, mostly by giving the "others category" a bigger relative share of representation and increasing the overall footprint of female-owned brands from approximately 6% of the total to approximately 15%. Of the 107 total brands, 32 were bourbon/whiskey (30%), 29 were tequila/mezcal (27%), 20 were vodka (19%), and 26 (24%) were other (gin, rum, cognac, etc.). 

Here are the 44 newest celebrity brands to emerge since 2021:

Pantalones Tequila (Matthew McConoughey)
Virginia Black Whiskey (Drake)
Effen Vodka (50 Cent)
Conjure Vodka (Ludacris)
Crossfire Hurricane Rum (Rolling Stones)
Mezcalum Mezcal (Erin Lichy)
Fraser and Thompson Whiskey (Michael Bublé)
Vosa Spirits (Kate Upton)
Holistic Spirits Company (Woody Harrelson and Amy Holmwood)
Volley Tequila Seltzer (Alex Morgan)
Sweet Grass Vodka (Jeremy Renner)
Delola RTD Spritzes (Jennifer Lopez)
Steph Curry (Gentleman's Cut Bourbon)
Renais Gin (Emma Watson)
Sunny Vodka (Anastasia Karanikolaou)
Mercer + Prince Whisky (A$AP Rocky)
Kickstand Cocktails (J.J. Watt and Kealia and T.J. Watt)
Brothers Osborne (WhistlePig Whiskey)
Nocheluna Sotol (Lenny Kravitz)
Liev Schreiber (Slainte Irish Whiskey)
Miles Teller (Long Drink RTD Cocktails)
Margalicious Margarita (Vanessa Hudgens, Ashley Benson, Rosario Dawson)
Old Fashioned by John Cena (John Cena)
JAJA Tequila (The Chainsmokers)
Silverbelly Whiskey (Alan Jackson)
Redmont Vodka (Charles Barkley)
Ashbourne Craft Spirits (Sarah Jessica Parker)
Gran Coramino Tequila (Kevin Hart)
Flecha Azul Tequila (Mark Wahlberg)
American Highway Reserve Bourbon (Brad Paisley)
Ten to One Rum (Ciara)
Casa Del Sol Tequila (Eva Longoria)
Calirosa Tequila (Adam Levine & Behati Prinsloo)
Edinburgh Gin (Phoebe Waller-Bridge)
Black Irish Cream Liqueur (Mariah Carey)
Wolf Moon Bourbon (Jason Aldean)
Dos Primos Tequila (Thomas Rhett)
Villa One Tequila (Nick Jonas)
Casa Dragones Tequila (Ryan Seacrest)
Bad Ass Premium Vodka (Dennis Rodman)
Lo-Cal Tequila (Colin Jost)
Black Label Japanese Whisky (Steven Segal)
Coconut Rum (Tik Tik Star Dixie D'Amelio)

One thing becomes clear when you survey this long list of brands: Celebrity endorsements and celebrity tie-ins can help sell bottles and make a company successful, but only if the liquid inside the bottle is good. No matter how much star power and marketing money you bring to a promotion, nothing will substitute for good old quality. We'll drink to that. 
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5 Great Aquavit Cocktails to Make at Home

2/19/2024

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We at Downtime Cocktails are always looking to develop great new recipes using aquavit as the base, and we often look to some of our country's most talented bartenders for inspiration.
Recently, while searching the cocktail menus of America's most notable watering holes, we came across a number of truly intriguing aquavit-centric recipes that we thought we'd share with you. We're very encouraged, by the way, that with every year that goes by, there seem to be more and more menus that include at least one delicious-sounding aquavit concoction. You'll note that there are two recipes here from Death & Co., which is no accident. They have been on the forefront of creating aquavit-based cocktails for many years now—way ahead of the crowd.
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Fault Line
From Shannon Tebay, Death & Co., New York City
Bartender Shannon Tebay recalls her inspiration for this cocktail recipe. She remembers musing, ‘What would a carrot Negroni look like?’ The aquavit base, as she says, “seasons everything with caraway” and is complemented by artichoke-flavored Cynar as well as a small measure of Reisetbauer carrot eau de vie.

Ingredients
1 1/2 ounces aquavit
1 ounce vermouth, preferably Cocchi di Torino
3/4 ounce Cynar
1 teaspoon carrot eau de vie, (we love Reisetbauer)
Garnish: orange twist
 
Directions
1.    Combine all ingredients in a double rocks glass over ice and stir well.
2.   Garnish with an orange twist.
 
Nordic Honey Punch
From Alex Andersen, Cure, New Orleans
Clarified milk punches are all the rage with bartenders these days, so here's a tasty aquavit-based milk punch for you to make and share with friends.
Serves 5
 
Ingredients
8 ounces aquavit
4 ounces bianco vermouth (we love Dolin Blanc)
2 ounces Gran Classico
2 ounces honey/agave syrup (2:1)
2 ounces lemon juice
8 ounces whole milk
Garnish: dill sprig
 
Directions
1.    Combine the honey syrup, Gran Classico, and vermouth in a pitcher and whisk until the honey is incorporated.
2.   Pour the milk into a pan and bring to a boil.
3.   Turn off the stove and immediately add the lemon juice and stir. Let sit for five minutes, then add the aquavit.
4.   Strain through a cheesecloth into the pitcher with the vermouth mixture, then strain the entire mixture again.
5.   Double line a large coffee filter and strain the remaining liquid again.
6.   Bottle and serve in a rocks glass over ice.
7.    Garnish with a dill sprig.
 
Southern Nights
From Alex Jump, Death & Co., Denver
Evidently, bartender Alex Jump started this recipe with the idea of creating a cocktail that tasted like carrot cake, but none of her attempts yielded anything satisfying.  She did, however, wind up with a delicious dessert-like concoction that consists of aquavit, Cognac, peanut-infused oloroso sherry, lemon, and mascarpone, which is topped with crushed ice and peanut brittle. Say what?

Ingredients
3/4 ounce aquavit
3/4 ounce Cognac, (we love Pierre Ferrand Ambre)
3/4 ounce peanut-infused oloroso sherry (see prep note)
1/2 ounce cane syrup (2:1, cane sugar:water)
1/4 ounce lemon juice
1 barspoon mascarpone
Garnish: peanut brittle
 
Directions
1.    Combine all ingredients in a mixing tin and shake with ice.
2.   Fine strain into a double Old-Fashioned glass and top with crushed ice.
3.   Garnish with peanut brittle.
 
Prep Note:
Peanut-Infused Oloroso Sherry:
180 grams raw peanuts
1 750mL-bottle oloroso sherry

Gently toast the peanuts until they are golden. Cool and place in a vacuum bag with the sherry. Seal the bag tightly and store in the refrigerator overnight. Strain through a coffee filter lined strainer (a chinois or cone-shape strainer is best) and rebottle. Store in the refrigerator.
 
Hideaway Honey
From Erick Castro, Raised by Wolves/Gilly's, San Diego
Erick Castro is the force behind some of San Diego’s most notable and popular cocktail bars, including Polite Provisions, Noble Experiment, Raised by Wolves, and—most recently—Gilly's. This uniquely delicious cocktail marries aquavit with yogurt, which makes for a sweet, creamy, and citrusy drink that's super refreshing.

Ingredients
1 1/2 ounces barrel-aged aquavit
1/2 ounce yellow Chartreuse
3/4 ounce lemon juice
1/2 ounce honey syrup (1:1, honey:syrup)
1/2 ounce Indian yogurt
club soda, to top
Garnish: edible flowers (optional)
 
Directions
1.    Combine all ingredients in a mixing tin and shake.
2.   Strain into a Collins glass over ice and top with club soda.
3.   Garnish with edible flowers, such as nasturtium or edible pansies.

The Rorschach Test
From Patrick Smith, The Violet Hour, Chicago
This cocktail balances savory aquavit with a few sweet-tart fruit elements—Amer Picon (an orange and gentian bitter), lemon and grenadine—all made sparkling and bubbly by a generous topping of pale ale.

Ingredients
1 1/2 ounce aquavit
1 ounce Amer Picon
3/4 ounce lemon juice
3/4 ounce grenadine
2-3 ounces light pale ale
Garnish: rolled orange peel on a skewer
 
Directions
1.   Combine all ingredients (except beer) in a cocktail shaker with ice.
2.  Shake lightly and pour, ice included, into a hurricane glass.
3.  Top with beer.
4.  Garnish with rolled up, skewered orange peel.
 
As you can see from these recipes, mixologists are incorporating aquavit with a wide variety of other ingredients. Sherry, yogurt, pale ale, and Cynar—the possibilities seem almost limitless. We hope these recipes will inspire you to create some exciting new cocktails at home and to look for the more adventurous cocncoctions when you're out at your favorite bars.
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The Insider's Guide to Bartender Lingo (Part 2)

2/12/2024

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As you may or may not know, bartenders and folks in the hospitality industry have evolved their own unique lexicon, one that serves numerous functions. Primarily, a terminology unique to an industry helps to create a useful shorthand for all those involved—it's a quick and easy ways to convey information or requests in an environment that's often fast-paced, frenetic, and rushed. "86 that," means cancel the order. "Burn the ice," means melt the ice because something has fallen into it (often glass). A "drain pour" is a drink that's just too bad to serve or finish.

A unique vocabulary also enables colleagues behind the bar to communicate in a kind of secret language that's not commonly understood by the general public. It's a stealthy way for bartenders, waiters, and other service staff to let each other know about problem patrons, or issues to be aware of. If you're referred to as a "fruit bat," for example, it's probably because you're eating the fruit at the bar that's intended for the garnishes. (This is frowned upon, by the way.)

Last May, we did a newsletter with a round up of our favorite bartender terms, but since then, we've come across a bunch more. Of course, we want to share them with you.
 
50/50 shot: A shot featuring two ingredients measured in equal parts. One of the most common 50/50s often involves Fernet-Branca and another spirit mixed together.

Amaroulette: Originated at the Fifty Fifty Gin Club in Cincinnati, this term is used by guests when they want the bartender to pick what brand of amaro they’ll drink as a shot.

“Are you mad at me?” At Accomplice Bar in Los Angeles, a bartender might pose this question to a colleague when they’re in the weeds. “We ask each other this when we know no one is mad at us,” explains beverage director Ramsey Musk, “just to lighten the mood.”

Barbacking: Traditionally used to describe the entry-level position of assisting the bartender on duty, the phrase “barback for me,” when requested during a shift, is an ask for another bartender to discreetly get a guest’s name.

Bartender’s handshake: A shot ordered (or offered) to identify (or acknowledge) a fellow bartender. Whereas Fernet-Branca was once the go-to bartender’s handshake, it's now common to send Chartreuse, Jeppson’s Malört, and even Angostura bitters. (Our dream? One day, Batch 22 becomes the classic bartender's handshake.)

Blip: Also known as a “cheeky,” “little guy” or “shorty,” this refers to small or mini shots that staff members share together or with guests, sometimes during a “staff meeting” (see below)
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Boomerang: This is when a bartender sends a cocktail to another bar or bartender, typically through a trusted intermediary who also works in the industry, as a gift or sign of camaraderie. At establishments like DrinkWell in Austin, Texas, the term serves a second purpose: “We also use this when R&D’ing cocktails to denote the drinks on the menu that are going to be popular with our industry friends. E.g., ‘Oh, this is a solid boomerang drink,’” explains owner Jessica Sanders.
  
Burn the ice: This is a term used when faucet water must be continuously run over cocktail ice to melt the leftover supply at the end of the night (or when broken glass falls in the ice well). Many eco-conscious bars eschew this practice as unnecessarily wasteful, so many bars have evolved various alternatives for disposing of leftover ice, such as using it to water plants or clean select bar areas.

Cheater bottle: An unlabeled, standard-size bottle that fits easily into a bar well, into which the contents of an oddly shaped spirits bottle are transferred to expedite and simplify service. 
 
Civilians: Guests who do not work in the hospitality industry.
 
Close-looping: The practice of using ingredients in their entirety to create a zero-waste drink.

Club Sandwich: This is another form of a bartender’s handshake; the Club Sandwich is the combination of a beer and a shot (also known as a boilermaker).

Dirty dump: The practice of pouring a shaken drink from the cocktail shaker into the glass without straining it. The technique changes the texture of the drink and sometimes the flavor, if, for instance, muddled fruit is part of the recipe.

Down: When a drink is served in a rocks glass with no ice, like a Sazerac.
 
(Joining the) Empty Bottle Club: When a guest gets the last pour of a special or rare bottle, an act generally documented with a picture of the bottle lying on its side.

Flash-blend: When a cocktail is blended using a flash blender (sometimes known as a stand-up mixer, spindle blender, or Hamilton Beach) for a few seconds with a small amount of crushed ice. This aerates the drink while chilling it quickly and is especially effective for tropical cocktails.
 
Fruit bat: A guest who eats the pieces of fruit on the bar that are intended for garnishing.

Fuzzy: At Nightmoves in Brooklyn, the bartender explains that a drink is “fuzzy” when it is “pushed out of a small home-brew keg with CO2 and kept under pressure so [it has] a light effervescence but [isn’t] force-carbonated.”
 
Garbage: Muddled fruit, herbs or other ingredients that remain in the bottom of a glass or shaker tin.
 
Gaudy: A “gaudy” cocktail is one presented (often on social media) with over-the-top elements, such as dry-ice smoke and various tall and bulky decorative items.

Grab Rangoon: The term is used at Nine Bar in Chicago to describe a person who is “overly or inappropriately touchy or grabby.”
 
Layback: The act of bending backwards, or “laying back,” while someone else pours a shot straight from a bottle into the first person’s mouth.
 
Shampoo: Code for a splash of Champagne added to a cocktail.

Shifty: A liqueur, spirit or mixed drink consumed as a bar team, before, after or during a shift. Also called a “shift drink,” “onesies” or “cheeky.” At bars where alcohol consumption is no longer allowed during a shift, the “shifty” might be a shot of espresso, alcohol-free spirit or another beverage.

Sloppy steak: Nine Bar co-owner Lily Wang says the staff at her bar use this term for a person who is “sloppy drunk or wasted.”
 
Snaquiri, or Snaq: An amuse-bouche cocktail given to friends or special guests upon arrival at the bar. Originally two full-sized Daiquiris, bars now also serve a smaller (often shot-size) Daiquiri as a more approachable version.

Spaggled:  “Spaggle,” or “spaggled,” is a “crude interpretation of Sbagliato,” says Josh Lindley of Bartender Atlas (referring to the Negroni Sbagliato). “‘Spaggling’ is adding sparkling wine to an already finished cocktail.

Spiritfree: In 2017, Julia Momosé, owner of Kumiko in Chicago, released a written manifesto in which she advocated for the use of the term “spiritfree” in place of the more ubiquitous “mocktail” to give drinks made without alcohol the same respect and power as their alcohol-bearing counterparts. As the movement has grown, other terms, such as “alcohol-free,” “no-ABV” and “zero-proof,” have also become common, while “mocktail” has even begun to be reclaimed by some.
​
Sprotini: Shorthand for an Espresso Martini, “Sprotini” is “a great example of a use of shorthand becoming the new and ubiquitous word for a thing,” says Yacht Club owner Mary Allison Wright, where the term originated.
Photograph of five shotglasses being filled at a bar.A "Staff Meeting"
Staff meeting: When a bar team takes a small shot together before, during or after a shift. Variations include “family meal,” “safety meeting,” “guild meetings,” “snack time” and “staff bonding,” among others. When Daiquiris are the drink in question, the phrase “Daiquiri Time Out” or DTO, is often called. Some bars have more specific code names: for example, “Uncle Ray is in Town” is code for J. Wray & Nephew rum shots at Drastic Measures near Kansas City.

Superjuice: An alternative to fresh citrus juice, superjuice is a combination of citrus peels and acid powder plus water, all of which is blended and fine-strained, then combined with fresh juice squeezed from the peeled fruit. Many bartenders make superjuice to close the loop on waste and increase the yield of their citrus.

Training wheels, or wheels: The staff at Yacht Club, explains that bartenders refer to “training wheels” to describe the act of taking a “back,” or a piece of fruit, with a shot to make it easier to drink.
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Water bombs: These are glasses of water chugged by the staff (usually together) to stay hydrated during a shift.

Whip shake: A very short and fast shake with a small amount of crushed or pebble ice. A whip shake quickly chills the drink without adding too much dilution while also maximizing froth.

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Cocktail Trends

2/5/2024

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The world of mixology and cocktail culture is always rapidly changing. New ingredients, preparations, and techniques, as well as new priorities for sourcing and presentation all drive a constant evolution in the alcoholic beverage space.

Some "trends" endure longer than others. Although the mezcal craze has seemed to finally come to an end, mezcal ruled the most influential bars and cocktail restaurants for many years. "Artisan" gin has also apparently plateaued. Espresso martinis are still going strong, but have been for a while now. Surely, their time is limited.

2023 saw a number of interesting new cocktail trends emerge, many of which are likely to endure through 2024. Here's a quick rundown of the cocktail trends we think are likely to be with us for a while longer:

Personalized cocktail ice: Crystal clear ice has been a thing for quite sometime now, but "customized" cubes have more recently become all the rage. Logos, messages, images; the ice cube has become a tiny canvas for all sorts of personal expression and creativity.  Want an image of your pug floating in your Negroni? There's a website for that.

Savory cocktails: Obviously, savory cocktails have been around for as long as there have been cocktails, but 2023 saw notable growth in their popularity. As more and more drinkers move away from sweet, sugary concoctions and drift toward spirit-forward cocktails that highlight the flavors of the liquor, savory cocktails have really come into their own. Parmesan martinis, Caprese martinis, mushroom martinis; they're all just a small sampling of the new appreciation for complex, subtle, and sophisticated flavor combinations.
​Garnish minimalism: For a while, over-the-top garnishes were de rigeur in the fancy bars and lounges (think fancy cut fruit and fronds of all shapes and sizes). But, as concerns over food waste and eco-consciousness have grown, bartenders have moved toward a more minimalist approach to garnishes. Single peels of citrus, an olive, a dehydrated lemon or lime wheel, a sprinkle of herb; these are now the preferred accompaniments to even the most creative drinks.
Martini with Minimalist Garnish, a simple cocktail onion on a bamboo toothpick.
Sotol plant.Sotol Plant
Agave alternatives: With intrigue and interest in mezcal waning, alternative forms of agave-based spirits and agave-adjacent spirits have gained in popularity. Most notable are sotol (a desert-based, non-agave plant made from a varietal called desert spoon that produces an herbaceous and grassy tequila-like liquor) and bacanora (a fruity agave-based spirit made in Sonora, Mexico from wild-grown agave pacifica). If you're game to try these spirits, we recommend a bottle of Oro de Coyame (about $20) for sotol, and Sunora bacanora (about $40).

Shrubs: Skyrocketing prices for citrus have motivated hospitality professionals to seek out other forms of mixer ingredients. One of the most popular has been the shrub, which is typically a vinegar and fruit concoction that adds acidity and fruit to a cocktail recipe. Shrubs have been around for thousands of years (the Romans used them to preserve fruits and other ingredients) but today bartenders are finding that shrubs can take cocktails in bold and exciting new directions.
​
Milk punches: Smoked milk and clarified milk punches have begun to appear on cocktail menus all over the world, especially the most innovative and cutting-edge establishments in New York, Mexico City, Toronto, and London. You can clarify almost any liquid, but the alchemy of clarifying milk is based on a simple chemistry. When you add alcohol to milk, it causes it to curdle, which separates the solids from the liquid, leaving behind a clear cocktail ingredient. Clarified milk is being used in countless cocktail recipes, mixed with everything from Earl Grey to lemon to citrus juices of all kinds.
 
Fat Washes: Bacon washes have been a thing for a few years now, but that trend seems to be growing and evolving into something much more complex and wide ranging. In 2024, expect to see an increasing number of bartenders using more unconventional cocktail ingredients such as coconut oil, goose fat, and sesame oil to fat-wash their drinks. This technique enables the world's best bars to add a savory, umami layer to the cocktails they create, which heightens the complex flavor profiles in their drinks.

Fluffy cocktails: Traditionally, getting a cocktail to be "fluffy" required the use of egg white; notably shaking egg white into a drink to create creaminess, froth, and mouthfeel. Today, there are many alternatives available to aid in the fluffing of a cocktail, most notable among them is aquafaba (liquid from a can a can of white beans) and all the variations of aquafaba and egg white powder available on the market.
Recently, mixologists have turn to a newer technique to achieve fluffiness: aeration of ingredients. The appeal of a "fluffy" cocktail is really two-fold: by aerating a key ingredient (often citrus) the aroma is heightened and the mouthfeel it imparts is made smoother and more umami-like. Look for an increased presence of fluffy cocktails on the menus of your favorite serious cocktail purveyors as we move through 2024. Here's a fluffy cocktail recipe to get you started at home:

Fluffy Batch Garibaldi

2 oz. Batch 22
1 oz. Campari
1 oz. Simple syrup
6 ozs. Fresh squeezed blood orange juice

In a highball glass with ice, combine the Batch, Campari, and simple syrup by mixing well. Aerate the orange juice in a high-sided container, using a milk frother or similar small device. Aerate for 1 minute or so, until juice becomes foamy and frothy. Pour slowly into the highball glass and stir gently. Garnish with an orange slice.
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